Wednesday, 17 September 2025

The Adventure of the Vanished Heiress - a Holmes Pastiche by ChatGPT

I’ve been playing around with ChatGPT getting it to write stories and other things in the style of various well-known authors. (One of my favourites was a wine backnote in the style of James Joyce. It was surprisingly readable).

With very little prompting, I got it to come up with a very reasonable pastiche of a Sherlock Holmes story. In my opinion it’s every bit as good as most of the other, human-written attempts at this kind of thing.

The Adventure of the Vanished Heiress

It has long been my habit to record the more singular of the cases in which I had the honour of assisting my friend, Inspector Alastair Greaves. Though Greaves was attached to Scotland Yard, his methods owed little to the usual machinery of officialdom, and it was this very independence of thought that rendered him invaluable to his superiors, though it sometimes caused them no small discomfort.

The affair which I here set down began on a damp November morning, when I found Greaves already deep in correspondence. A telegram lay open upon the desk.

Lady Eleanor Cheviot has disappeared from Cheviot Manor under extraordinary circumstances. Presence requested. — R. Cheviot

“Cheviot Manor?” I exclaimed. “That is in Sussex, is it not? A most respectable old house. What possible mystery could lurk there?”

Greaves smiled faintly. “Every house, however venerable, may conceal secrets, my dear fellow. Will you accompany me?”

Thus it was that we found ourselves, two days later, ascending the gravel drive of the great estate. The November mist clung to the hedgerows and muffled the sound of our carriage wheels. Sir Roderick Cheviot, a tall, grave man of military bearing, awaited us upon the steps.

“My sister is gone,” he said without preamble, “and with her, it seems, a portion of the family jewels. Yet there is no sign of intruders, and no conveyance by which she might have quitted the grounds unseen. Gentlemen, I fear some foul play.”

Greaves’ eyes narrowed as we were led through the echoing hall. “We shall see what the walls of this house may tell us,” he murmured.

The Adventure of the Vanished Heiress

Part II: The Chamber of Shadows

Sir Roderick conducted us through the oak-panelled corridors of Cheviot Manor until we reached a heavy door at the end of the east wing. He paused with his hand upon the latch.

“It was here,” he said solemnly, “that my sister was last seen. The maid swears she retired for the night, yet by morning she had vanished, leaving neither note nor sign of struggle.”

We entered a chamber that was as elegant as it was sombre. The great bed with its canopy of crimson velvet stood untouched, the fire in the grate long cold. Greaves moved silently about the room, his eyes alert, his movements deliberate.

“Observe, if you please,” he said presently, pointing to the window. “The catch is fastened from within, and the ivy outside would scarcely bear the weight of a child, let alone a grown woman. Escape by that route may be set aside.”

He turned then to the escritoire, where a sheaf of correspondence lay neatly stacked. With gloved fingers he lifted the topmost letter, scrutinising the seal and the impression of the handwriting. A low whistle escaped him.

“You will remark,” he said, “that Lady Eleanor wrote of late to one Captain Harbury, of His Majesty’s cavalry. The tone is—shall we say—more ardent than brother or servant might expect.”

Sir Roderick gave a groan. “That blackguard! He had the effrontery to seek her hand last spring, but she refused him. If she has fled with him now, it is the ruin of our name!”

“Patience, Sir Roderick,” said Greaves quietly. “We must not leap to conclusions. Note also this.” He indicated a smear upon the curtain near the bedpost. I leaned closer and saw what appeared to be a faint dark stain.

“Blood?” I whispered.

“Not blood,” Greaves replied. “Something subtler, yet equally suggestive. The story of this chamber is not yet complete, but I begin to glimpse its outline.”

Part III: The Testimony of the Servants

At Greaves’s request, Sir Roderick summoned the household staff to the library. They entered one by one, nervous and subdued beneath the detective’s steady gaze.

First came the maid, Alice, a pale young woman with anxious hands.
“You were the last to see Lady Eleanor?” Greaves asked.

“Yes, sir. I brought her chocolate at ten o’clock, as was her custom. She bade me good night and seemed in good spirits.”

“Did she mention any intention of leaving the house?”

Alice shook her head vehemently. “Never, sir. She was devoted to the family. She loved this house.”

Greaves dismissed her gently, and the butler, Mr. Henshaw, was called. A tall, austere figure, he spoke with measured tones.
“I secured the doors and windows myself, sir. No stranger entered that house.”

“Yet someone departed it,” Greaves observed softly. “Tell me, Mr. Henshaw, were you aware of correspondence between Lady Eleanor and Captain Harbury?”

The butler’s face betrayed a flicker of surprise before he recovered. “I may have carried a letter or two, sir, but it was not my place to pry.”

Greaves leaned back, his hands steepled. “Indeed. And yet you noticed something amiss last night, did you not?”

Henshaw hesitated. “There was… a sound in the east corridor, about midnight. Like the rustle of skirts. When I looked, the passage was empty.”

The final servant, a footman named Jarvis, gave a different account. “I saw a lantern, sir, moving across the lawn towards the copse. I thought it strange at that hour, but I dared not leave my post.”

Greaves’s eyes brightened. “A lantern, you say? Excellent. Gentlemen, we are drawing nearer to the truth. Lady Eleanor did not vanish into thin air, as some might suppose. She was led — or compelled — from her chamber.”

He rose and turned to Sir Roderick. “With your permission, I should like to examine the grounds before nightfall. There are footprints to be found, though others may think the trail too cold.”

Sir Roderick assented at once, though his brow furrowed with fresh unease.

Part IV: The Clues in the Garden

We quitted the manor by the eastern door, Greaves striding ahead with the brisk assurance of a bloodhound upon the scent. The November mist still lingered among the hedgerows, and the air was heavy with the damp fragrance of fallen leaves.

“Observe, my dear fellow,” he said, kneeling by the gravel path. “Here — and again here — are impressions of a lady’s shoe. The soil is soft, and the mark is recent. Note also the depth: she was moving quickly, perhaps urged by haste or by fear.”

We followed the line of footprints until they left the path and struck across the lawn. There, mingled with them, I perceived heavier imprints — those of a man’s boot, broad-soled and military in cut.

“Harbury,” I murmured.

Greaves gave a noncommittal shrug. “So it would appear. Yet let us not condemn him prematurely. Motive and opportunity are but two legs of the tripod; proof must be the third.”

The trail led us to the edge of a small copse. Within its shadow, Greaves stooped suddenly and plucked a fragment of silk from a bramble. He held it to the fading light.

“The colour is crimson — identical to the gown Lady Eleanor was said to be wearing. Here, then, is evidence that she passed this way.”

Deeper in the copse, we came upon the remains of a lantern, its glass cracked, its wick still faintly scented of oil. Greaves examined it minutely, his eyes narrowing.

“This lantern was not dropped,” he pronounced. “It was struck from the hand, and with some violence. See how the handle is bent. I surmise that Lady Eleanor resisted her companion — perhaps attempted to turn back. What followed, we must yet discover.”

He rose, his figure looming in the twilight mist. “Come, the truth lies close at hand. The soil will tell us what tongues conceal.”

And with that, he pressed forward into the gathering darkness.

Part V: The Discovery in the Copse

We had not gone twenty paces further into the trees when Greaves halted so abruptly that I nearly collided with him. He had dropped to one knee and was brushing away a litter of dead leaves with his gloved hand.

“Here, my dear fellow,” he said quietly, “we arrive at the heart of it.”

I looked down and saw, half-buried in the damp earth, a small casket of dark wood. Its clasp was broken, as though wrenched open in haste. Within, glittered several stones of unmistakable brilliance.

“The Cheviot diamonds!” I exclaimed.

Greaves inclined his head. “Or part of them, at least. Enough to prove that Lady Eleanor did not steal away with her brother’s fortune intact. Why abandon such treasure, unless flight was not her purpose, but rather compulsion?”

At that moment Sir Roderick, who had followed a few paces behind, gave a cry and pointed to a clearing ahead. There, upon the mossy ground, lay a lady’s glove — and beside it, the unmistakable outline of a handkerchief embroidered with the initials E.C.

I confess my heart sank. “She was taken, then. God help her, Greaves, she may be lost to us.”

But my companion only frowned in concentration. “Lost? No. Taken, yes — but not yet beyond recall. Note the peculiar angle of these impressions in the soil. Two persons struggled here, one striving to go forward, the other to return. The lady resisted to the last.”

He rose, eyes flashing. “We must learn who led her hence. And for that, we must question Captain Harbury — tonight.”

Part VI: The Confrontation with the Captain

We found Captain Harbury at the Cheviot Arms, the only inn of note in the nearby village. He was a striking figure in his cavalry coat, with bold features and a moustache that would have done credit to a guardsman. Yet, for all his martial bearing, his eyes betrayed a certain restlessness, as of a man playing a dangerous game.

Greaves introduced himself with quiet civility, and we three were soon seated in a private parlour, the Captain with a glass of brandy in hand.

“You know why we are here,” Greaves began without preamble. “Lady Eleanor has vanished. Her letters to you were found in her chamber. What part do you play in this affair?”

Harbury flushed. “By heaven, sir, none but an honourable one! Lady Eleanor and I — we held an understanding, though her brother disapproved. She wrote me of her intent to plead with him once more. I expected her message last night, but it did not come.”

“And yet,” said Greaves evenly, “your boot prints are plainly traced across the Cheviot lawns, side by side with a lady’s slipper. How do you explain that?”

The Captain started, his brandy slopping upon the table. “That is impossible! I never set foot upon the estate these past two nights. I was here, in this very room, and the innkeeper will attest to it.”

“Perhaps he will,” Greaves murmured. “Yet your denial carries little weight against the evidence of the ground itself. Unless…” He leaned forward, eyes keen as steel. “Unless another has borrowed your tread.”

“Another?” Harbury’s brow darkened.

“Yes. The impression was of a military boot, broad-soled and hobnailed — but there are others besides yourself in this district who wear the same. Tell me, Captain, have you an enemy among the Cheviot household? A rival, perhaps, who would seek to cast suspicion upon you?”

For an instant, Harbury hesitated. Then his jaw tightened. “There is one. Henshaw, the butler. A stern man, but sly beneath it. He hated me, and I him. If foul play has been done, I would stake my life he is at the bottom of it.”

Greaves sat back, his expression unreadable. “We shall see, Captain. We shall see.”

Part VII: The Butler’s Secret

Upon our return to Cheviot Manor, Greaves requested that Mr. Henshaw attend us in the study. The old servant entered with his usual measured dignity, though I fancied there was a certain stiffness about his manner, as of one steeling himself for an ordeal.

“Henshaw,” Greaves began gently, “you have served this family faithfully for many years. I trust you would not withhold from us anything bearing upon Lady Eleanor’s safety?”

“Certainly not, sir,” the butler replied, his face impassive.

“Then how do you account,” Greaves continued, “for the curious fact that the impression of a hobnailed boot, identical in pattern to your own, was found beside Lady Eleanor’s footprints in the copse?”

For the first time, the mask slipped. Henshaw’s lips tightened, and a tremor passed through his hand as it gripped the back of a chair.

“My boots are common enough,” he said hoarsely. “Any farm labourer might leave such a mark.”

“True,” Greaves admitted. “Yet what labourer would also drop a lantern of the very make that hangs in your pantry? And what labourer would know the hiding-place of the Cheviot casket?”

At this, Sir Roderick sprang to his feet. “You villain! Have you betrayed us after all these years?”

But Greaves raised a hand. “Patience, Sir Roderick. Let the man speak.”

The butler’s composure crumbled. He sank into the chair, burying his face in his hands. When at last he looked up, his eyes were wild.

“It was not theft!” he cried. “Nor yet murder. I sought only to save her. Lady Eleanor was determined to flee with that scoundrel Harbury. I knew it would bring ruin upon the house. I met her in the copse, I wrested the casket from her hand — but she broke from me, and fled into the night. Where she has gone, I cannot say.”

Greaves regarded him with that cool, hawk-like gaze of his. “So. You admit to the struggle, yet deny the abduction. If your words are true, then Lady Eleanor is still at large — and we must look beyond you for the hand that has guided her fate.”

He turned to us with quiet urgency. “We have reached but the middle of the labyrinth. The butler is guilty of deception, but not of the greater crime. There is another player in this drama, one whom we have yet to confront.”

Part VIII: The Hidden Hand

The butler’s confession left Sir Roderick pale and shaken, yet Greaves appeared almost invigorated by the revelation. His eyes shone with that peculiar brilliance I had come to recognise when his mind was hard upon the scent.

“Consider, my dear fellow,” he said to me as we paced the corridor afterwards, “Henshaw intercepted Lady Eleanor, but failed to detain her. Therefore, someone else must have seized the opportunity to intervene. Someone who knew both of her intention to flee and of the jewels she carried.”

“But who?” I asked. “If not the Captain, nor the butler—”

Greaves stopped abruptly and tapped his forehead. “Precisely! If not they, then another who would profit doubly by her disappearance: one who gains both the treasure and the silence of Lady Eleanor.”

That evening, Greaves requested the household to gather in the drawing-room. The great chandelier cast long shadows upon the walls, and the tension was palpable. Sir Roderick stood grim, the servants fidgeted nervously, and Captain Harbury — summoned by Greaves — glowered like a man accused.

“My friends,” Greaves began calmly, “we are told that Lady Eleanor vanished of her own free will, or else by violence. Both accounts are false. The truth is subtler. She was lured, deceived, and ultimately taken — by one within these very walls.”

A murmur ran through the assembly.

Greaves held up the embroidered handkerchief we had found in the copse. “This token was meant to mislead, yet it has betrayed its master. The initials are genuine, but the stitching — see here — is not Lady Eleanor’s, but another’s hand. I have compared it with the maid Alice’s own work, taken from her sewing-basket. The match is perfect.”

A gasp escaped the room, and Alice sank back against the wall, her face ashen.

“Yes,” Greaves continued inexorably. “It was you, Alice, who conveyed letters, who passed whispers from room to room, who prepared the ground for flight. But you were not serving Lady Eleanor’s interests — you were serving another’s.”

He turned slowly, and his gaze fell upon Sir Roderick Cheviot.

Part IX: The Master of the House

A silence fell upon the drawing-room, heavy as the velvet curtains that enclosed us. Sir Roderick stood rigid, his hand clenched upon the mantelpiece, his eyes fixed upon Greaves with a mixture of outrage and dread.

“Sir!” he thundered. “Do you dare insinuate that I, the head of this house, am implicated in my sister’s disappearance?”

Greaves’s voice remained cool and measured. “I insinuate nothing, Sir Roderick. I state only what the evidence compels. It was you who contrived the handkerchief, employing Alice’s needle; you who placed the casket in the copse to feign theft; you who sought to cast suspicion upon Captain Harbury. But the pattern of deceit is too neat, too deliberate — and it points to but one mind.”

The assembled servants gasped. Harbury sprang forward, his hand upon his sword-hilt, but Greaves restrained him with a glance.

“Why?” I whispered. “What motive could drive a brother to such cruelty?”

Greaves’s grey eyes did not waver. “Because Lady Eleanor alone stood between Sir Roderick and the full inheritance of the Cheviot estate. Her fortune, her jewels, her very life were obstacles to his ambition. He devised this elaborate masquerade to remove her without bloodshed — or so he hoped.”

Sir Roderick’s face blanched, then flushed dark with fury. “Lies! Slander! Where is your proof?”

Greaves stepped closer, producing from his pocket the fragment of silk we had found upon the bramble. “This shred of crimson was torn not from Lady Eleanor’s gown, but from your own hunting coat, Sir Roderick. The weave is unmistakable. You were in the copse that night. You led her forth, and when she resisted, you silenced her.”

At this, Sir Roderick’s composure collapsed. He staggered, his lips working soundlessly, then sank into a chair. “I… I meant only to persuade her,” he muttered hoarsely. “To make her see reason. But she cried out — she would not yield — I panicked—”

Greaves laid a hand upon his shoulder. “Then tell us where she is. Even now, it may not be too late.”

All eyes fixed upon Sir Roderick as the fire crackled in the grate.

Part X: The Fate of Lady Eleanor

Sir Roderick buried his face in his hands. His voice, when it came, was low and broken.

“She is hidden… in the old hunting lodge beyond the north wood. I thought only to confine her there until she relented. The place is disused — no servants go near it. I left provisions, blankets, all she would need. But when I returned…” He faltered.

Greaves’s gaze was keen as a hawk’s. “When you returned, she was gone.”

Sir Roderick looked up, startled. “How—how could you know?”

“Because,” said Greaves calmly, “you are no murderer. Ambitious, yes; desperate, certainly; but not cruel enough to spill your sister’s blood. You sought to cow her into submission, not to destroy her. Yet someone else learned of your scheme and turned it to darker ends.”

A murmur passed through the company. I confess, my own heart leapt with mingled hope and dread.

“Come, Dr. Harrington,” Greaves said briskly. “We must waste no more time.”

Within the hour, we rode hard for the north wood. The night was raw, the moon veiled by racing clouds, and the wind carried strange cries through the trees. At last we reached the lodge: a gaunt ruin of timber and stone, its windows gaping like eyeless sockets.

Greaves thrust open the door, lantern in hand. The air within was damp, tinged with the odour of mould and long neglect. On the floor lay an overturned chair, a torn scrap of muslin, and the impression of a woman’s slipper in the dust.

“She was here,” Greaves murmured, stooping to examine the marks. “And taken hence — forcibly, by more than one man. See how the prints drag, how the doorframe bears splinters from a struggle.”

I shivered as the lantern-light danced upon the shadows. “But where is she now?”

Greaves rose, his jaw set. “That, my dear fellow, is the question. Sir Roderick’s guilt has unmasked the first layer of this affair. But there is a hand beyond his — colder, more calculating — that has seized Lady Eleanor. And until we find it, her life hangs by the slenderest thread.”

Part XI: The Shadowed Pursuit

The night was restless, the branches of the great oaks groaning above as we retraced the signs Greaves had observed. Lantern in hand, he moved like a hound upon the scent, pausing here to test the depth of a footprint, there to finger the bruised leaves where a carriage had forced its way through undergrowth.

“Note the ruts,” he whispered. “Narrow wheels, lighter than a farmer’s cart, yet cut deep into the soil — they bore weight. Whoever spirited Lady Eleanor away had made ready a small conveyance, waiting just beyond the lodge.”

“Then we may yet overtake them!” I cried.

Greaves shook his head. “They have a start of many hours. But mark you — such wheels are rare. Only a gig or phaeton would leave so slender an impression. There are but three in Cheviot parish. We must learn whose hand guided one here this very night.”

By dawn, we had reached the village inn. Greaves questioned the ostler with his usual quiet thoroughness. At last, the fellow admitted that a gentleman, cloaked and muffled, had passed through not long after midnight, driving a light carriage and urging the horse at great speed toward the road for Bristol.

“A gentleman?” Greaves pressed.

The ostler scratched his head. “So I took him for, sir. Spoke civil, but kept his face in shadow. Paid in coin, good sovereigns all.”

Greaves’s eyes narrowed. “There are not many about this countryside who have sovereigns to spare.” He turned to me. “We ride to Bristol at once. There, amidst the press of ships and strangers, lies the next act of this sinister play. For I fear Lady Eleanor is bound, not merely for concealment, but for passage — passage out of England itself.”

I confess my heart sank at the thought. Yet Greaves, far from daunted, seemed only the more resolved. His gaze was fixed, his lips compressed, and I knew that come what might, he would not rest until Lady Eleanor was restored.

Part XII: The Port of Shadows

The city of Bristol lay before us, its harbour crowded with masts that pierced the morning mist like a forest of pikes. The air was thick with the cries of sailors, the stink of tar and fish, and the restless creak of cordage. Here, amidst the bustle of commerce, the innocent and the criminal jostled shoulder to shoulder — and somewhere among them, Lady Eleanor was held in peril.

Greaves surveyed the docks with a keen eye. “Observe, Harrington,” he said, “the variety of vessels: brigs for the colonies, schooners for the coast, West Indiamen bound for warmer seas. Any one of them might conceal our quarry. Yet men cannot vanish without leaving trace; we must seek the ripple their passage leaves behind.”

We began our inquiries at the sailors’ taverns that lined the waterfront. At the third such den — a foul house reeking of rum and tobacco — Greaves’s method bore fruit. The innkeeper, cowed by his quiet authority, admitted that two nights before, a cloaked gentleman had taken lodging in his upper room, accompanied by “a lady, pale as death, who spoke not a word.”

My heart quickened. “It was she!” I exclaimed.

Greaves silenced me with a glance. “Patience, Harrington. The game is delicate yet.”

The innkeeper went on to say that the pair had departed at dawn, hiring two rough fellows to convey trunks to the quay. Greaves pressed for details, and soon we had it: they had boarded a vessel bound for Lisbon, the Santa Lucia, due to sail with the evening tide.

Without hesitation, we hastened to the quay. There she lay — a squat, weather-beaten brig, her crew bustling to make ready. Greaves studied the deck with his glass. “See yonder figure? Cloaked still, and pacing the quarterdeck with unease. That, Harrington, is the man who would spirit Lady Eleanor away.”

“And Lady Eleanor herself?” I asked breathlessly.

He lowered the glass, his expression grave. “Not in sight. Which means she is already confined below. We have but hours, perhaps minutes, before the tide carries her beyond our reach.”

He straightened, his jaw set. “Come. We must board the Santa Lucia — and quickly, if we are to snatch Lady Eleanor from the very jaws of exile.”

Part XIII: The Brig Santa Lucia

The afternoon waned as we approached the Santa Lucia. The harbour bustled with activity, carts laden with casks of wine and bales of wool trundling toward the gangway. Greaves, ever resourceful, contrived to pass us aboard under pretence of business with the ship’s master. I confess my nerves were sorely tested; yet my companion bore himself with such composure that suspicion scarcely touched us.

The master, a swarthy Portuguese fellow, greeted us with guarded civility. Greaves engaged him in talk of cargo and tonnage, drawing him aside whilst his quick eyes roved the vessel. Then, as though idly, he remarked:

“I am told you took aboard a gentleman and lady two nights past. I trust you find your passengers to your satisfaction?”

The master frowned. “One gentleman only, sir. No lady.”

Greaves smiled thinly. “Ah. I must have been misinformed.” He pressed a coin into the man’s hand, then drew me away.

“You perceive, Harrington,” he murmured, “the denial was too swift, too vehement. The woman is here — hidden.”

We lingered upon deck, watching the crew. Presently, Greaves’s attention fixed upon a burly seaman carrying a tray of food below. “Mark him,” he whispered. “Such fare is too delicate for the common mess. Come.”

We descended after the fellow, keeping to the shadows. The narrow passage reeked of tar and damp canvas. At length, the sailor stopped before a locked cabin, rapped twice, and was admitted by the cloaked passenger we had spied from the quay.

Through the narrow crack ere the door closed, I glimpsed her — Lady Eleanor herself, pale and wan, seated upon a narrow bunk. My heart leapt, but Greaves’s grip upon my arm restrained me.

“Not yet,” he breathed. “There are too many about us. We must strike swiftly and with certainty — else we are lost.”

As the sailor emerged once more, Greaves stepped forward, his voice low and commanding. “One word, and you are a dead man. Take us within.”

The fellow, cowed by his sudden authority, obeyed. The door swung wide, and we stood revealed before the astonished villain and the captive lady.

Lady Eleanor sprang to her feet with a cry of joy. “Dr. Harrington! Mr. Greaves!”

The cloaked man recoiled, his hand darting beneath his mantle. But Greaves was quicker. With a sudden lunge, he seized the fellow’s wrist and tore the weapon free. The cloak fell back — and the villain’s face was laid bare.

It was none other than Captain Harbury.

Part XIV: The Captain’s Plot

For a moment, the cabin was filled with silence save for the groan of timbers and the lap of water against the hull. Captain Harbury stood, his breast heaving, the colour drained from his cheek. Greaves, calm as ever, held the pistol in one hand and the Captain’s wrist in the other.

“So,” Greaves said softly, “the gallant suitor proves to be the abductor. A curious courtship, Captain — to win a lady’s hand by fetters and exile.”

Harbury’s eyes flashed with desperate defiance. “You know not what you meddle in! She was mine by promise — mine by right! Would you have her squandered upon the schemes of her brother, or upon your meddling notions of honour? I would have taken her where none could gainsay us, where her fortune and her jewels might be put to their rightful use.”

“Your rightful use, rather,” Greaves replied coolly. “The truth is plainer. You lured Sir Roderick into his foolish conspiracy, whispered ambition into his ear, then turned his blunder to your profit. While he sought only to cow his sister, you meant to steal both her person and her wealth, and cloak it all beneath the semblance of elopement.”

At this, Lady Eleanor, pale but resolute, lifted her head. “It is true,” she said. “He pressed me first with flattery, then with threats. When I refused, he contrived this villainy. Oh, sir—” she turned to Greaves, “—had you not come when you did, I fear I should never have seen England again.”

Harbury laughed harshly, though the sound rang hollow. “Bah! You have the word of a frightened woman. And yours, Greaves — a meddler with no proof.”

Greaves held aloft a small notebook he had drawn from the Captain’s discarded cloak. “On the contrary, here lies proof enough. Your own hand, Captain — tallies of debt, notes of cargo, arrangements for Lisbon. A neat account of treachery. I think the magistrates will read it with great interest.”

Harbury lunged, but Greaves, with admirable dexterity, cast him back against the bulkhead. The sailors, summoned by the commotion, crowded the passage. With a few words, Greaves held them in check, declaring the Captain under arrest for conspiracy and abduction in the name of the law.

The struggle was ended. Lady Eleanor was free.

Part XV: The Return to Cheviot Manor

It was with a sense of profound relief that we quitted the Santa Lucia, leaving Captain Harbury under guard of the harbour constable. Lady Eleanor, though wan and weary, bore herself with admirable fortitude. As the coach bore us back toward Cheviot Manor, the first flush of dawn broke across the fields, and the shadow that had so long hung over the house seemed to lift with the light.

Sir Roderick received us in the great hall. His face was haggard, his pride utterly broken. He fell to his knees before his sister. “Eleanor,” he whispered, “forgive me. My folly placed you in peril such as I scarce dare name. If you can grant me pardon, I shall devote what remains of my life to your service.”

Lady Eleanor, moved by his contrition, laid her hand gently upon his head. “Rise, brother. Though your weakness nearly wrought my ruin, still you are my kin. Let us henceforth walk in truth, and strive to restore honour to our house.”

Thus was reconciliation achieved, though Greaves confided to me later that Sir Roderick would long remain under discreet observation.

The matter closed in due course at the Assizes. Harbury, confronted with the evidence of his own hand, could not escape conviction. His sentence was severe, yet not undeserved, and thus ended the ambitions of a man whose charm had masked a heart of avarice and ruthlessness.

As for Lady Eleanor, she resumed her place at Cheviot Manor, her courage having won the admiration of all who knew her. In time, whispers of her trials and deliverance passed into local legend.

It was some weeks later, as Greaves and I sat once more by the fire in Baker Street, that I ventured to ask: “Tell me, my dear Greaves, what first gave you certainty that Harbury, and not Sir Roderick, was the darker hand in the affair?”

Greaves smiled faintly. “My dear Harrington, Sir Roderick was vain, foolish, and ambitious — but he lacked subtlety. The embroidered handkerchief was too artful, the scheme too precise. It bespoke a soldier’s discipline wedded to a gambler’s desperation. Once I learned of Harbury’s debts, the pattern was complete. Remember this always: when two men conspire, it is the subtler who profits most.”

I could not but marvel at the clarity of his reasoning. Thus ended the Adventure of the Vanished Heiress — a tale of pride, greed, and redemption, solved by the singular acumen of my friend Mr. Greaves.

Epilogue

The affair of the Vanished Heiress spread swiftly through the county, and in due course beyond it. The local papers, with their usual relish for sensation, proclaimed the “brilliant triumph of Mr. Greaves, the celebrated consulting detective.” Letters soon arrived from magistrates, noblemen, and even certain discreet members of the Government, all seeking his aid in matters most delicate.

For my part, I could not walk through the streets of Bristol without some acquaintance pressing me for particulars, or some matron inquiring after the health of “that brave young lady.” Lady Eleanor herself wrote to me, expressing gratitude in terms both generous and touching. She begged that I call upon her should I ever pass near Cheviot Manor — a promise I fully intend to honour.

As for Greaves, he received the sudden blaze of attention with his customary composure. “You see, Harrington,” he observed one evening, “success is but a double-edged sword. Each triumph invites the next, and the chain grows heavier with every link. Yet it is in the solving of such knots that I find my truest occupation.”

He paused, his gaze fixed upon the fire. “Even now, a letter lies upon my desk, bearing the seal of a certain distinguished client. It speaks of a theft most curious — a matter, I think, that will carry us from the drawing-rooms of Mayfair to the fog-drenched alleys of Whitechapel. If you have the stomach for it, Harrington, I should value your company once more.”

I assured him eagerly that he should not want for a chronicler. Thus, while the mystery of Lady Eleanor’s fate was laid to rest, I sensed that another, darker adventure already stirred upon the horizon.

And so the chronicles of Mr. Greaves, my incomparable friend, were but at their beginning.

Wednesday, 13 August 2025

A Trip to Norway

Our cruise ship, the Havila Castor

We wanted to go away for a week in August. Going south just means more crowds, so we wanted to go north. Neither of us has spent much time in Norway - I’d never been there at all. So that’s where we decided to go. After a lot of research, we worked with a travel organizer who set up a couple of nights in Oslo, then the classic “Norway in a Nutshell” journey to Bergen by train and ferry, stopping one night in the fjord at Flåm. Finally we would take a cruise along the coast from Bergen to the Arctic Circle.

It was a very enjoyable trip. Norway reminded us of Japan - very clean and correct, and it works. There seems to be a similar sense of shared social responsibility, putting society before the individual. We loved the dramatic scenery of the fjords and later the barren Arctic landscapes, with their occasional villages and hamlets. The cruise, on the Hurtigruten (coastal express) was really enjoyable and relaxing. We were incredibly lucky with the weather, with only one rainy afternoon. On our one night in the Arctic it was warm enough to sit outside without a coat even at midnight.

The only downside is that Norway is eye-wateringly expensive. A restaurant meal is two or three times more than it would be in France, and that goes for the other things we did too. Our French guidebook (Le Routard) warned us to have low expectations of food, but we ate great food throughout the trip.

Arrival in Oslo

To our surprise, there are direct flights from Nice to Oslo - lots of them, about six per day. Goodness knows who uses them. On our arrival in Oslo we ran into our first problem, which was a bit disconcerting, but it turned out to be the only one. The frequent express train into the city wasn’t running, due to a technical problem. But it was handled extremely well, with numerous guides ushering people onto a frequent bus replacement - electric, of course - which took us to the train station. We were impressed with how quickly this must all have been organized and how well it worked.

We made it into the city late in the afternoon, and set out to explore. I was a bit handicapped by a knee problem, which makes walking a long way difficult. Luckily we discovered the electric scooters which are ubiquitous there. A couple of minutes to install the necessary app on my phone and I was off, driving very slowly partly so Isabelle could keep up with me on foot, and partly because at any speed much higher than a walking pace, they are terrifying.

The Scooter Experience

My scooter took me to the harbour area, with Isabelle following on foot. The seafront was full of people strolling, eating, drinking and watching the constant stream of ferries coming and going. It was warm enough that even the tiny beach was filled with scantily-clad people.

I’d had a couple of beers with dinner and didn’t fancy braving the scooter again, so we got a taxi. That was our introduction to Norwegian prices. The short ride, equivalent to about four stops on the bus, cost over €30.

Our hotel, the Clarion, was business-like, modern, and right by the station. The most striking feature was the breakfast, a giant room, packed with people, and a huge buffet. There was every kind of food, lots of fish, charcuterie and cheese, fruits and vegetables, all kinds of bread, pastries, cereals, etc. It was hard to choose.

Our package included a 24-hour “Oslo Pass”, which gives unlimited public transport, entrance to museums, and various other things. We activated that the next morning and used it to take a tram to the harbour so we could take a ferry to Bygdøy, an island (almost) with several museums. Public transport in Oslo is really excellent, there are trams that run every few minutes and a comprehensive bus system that is nearly as frequent, plus of course the ubiquitous scooters. The short ferry journey was very pleasant, admiring the city from the water, and the many, many boats including a couple of the giant cruise ships that we had studiously avoided.

The closest museum to the ferry terminal is the Fram Museum, which is all about Amundsen’s successful 1911 expedition to the South Pole. To our surprise we spent over three hours there. The centrepiece, literally and metaphorically, is the eponymous ship, around which the museum is built. The striking thing about the expedition is the amount of organization it took. If you got to the South Pole and discovered you didn’t have enough trouser buttons (the actual example Amundsen used), you were stuck. He spent two years organizing the trip before setting out, primarily making sure they had enough supplies.

The story of their journey to the pole is truly an astounding one, including the essential return journey. He was in a race with the British explorer Scott, who did get there a few days after him but famously failed to return, dying just 100 km from his ship.

Amundsen didn’t stop there though. He became fascinated by aviation, and in 1925 made an effort to reach the North Pole by plane. They set out with two Dornier Wal aircraft, N24 and N25, incredibly crude by modern standards with open cockpits - to fly in the Arctic! N24 had an engine failure and N25 managed an emergency landing close by. It took nearly four weeks to hack out of the ice a runway long enough to take off, the crews of both planes living in N25 and surviving on rations that were intended for a much shorter journey. Finally they took off, massively overloaded, barely managing to climb over the surrounding terrain.

You don’t have to imagine this, because the museum has a simulator that re-enacts it, including the takeoff. The seats are animated and bounce around as you careen down the improvised runway then fly terrifyingly close to the hostile terrain.

Sadly Amundsen died in 1928, at the age of 55, when his plane disappeared on a rescue mission trying to find some other explorers. His whole life story is extraordinary and truly amazing.

In the evening we visited my friend Ole at his house in a chic suburb, where he and his family fed us some excellent roast moose and generally entertained us. It was a very pleasant evening. Horrified by the price of taxis, we took the bus both ways, which worked very well and didn’t even cost anything thanks to our Oslo Pass.

To The Fjords

The next morning saw us on a Bergen-bound train at 0812. Early mornings seemed to be a feature of this trip. For five hours we had magnificent views of the green countryside, with lakes, mountains, pine forests and everywhere red houses surrounded by mauve flowers.

At a station high in the mountains we changed onto the Flåmsbana, a separate train which drops dramatically from nearly 900 metres to sea level at its terminus, in just 20 km. It is the steepest adhesion (i.e. not rack) railway in Europe. The views as it descends are spectacular, with numerous waterfalls, and complicated spiral tunnels dug by hand in the 1930s. It feels strange to start so high in the mountains, and finish at sea level after such a short distance.

The town of Flåm sits at the end of Aurlandfjord, which is a branch of one of the most famous of all of them, Sognefjord. There isn’t a lot there: a handful of small hotels, the train station and an associated museum, and several tourist-oriented gift shops. While the big cruise ships are in port they are packed - mostly with Chinese tourists while we were there. Then the hordes return to their ships, the shops are deserted, and soon after they are shuttered closed.

Our trip included a bus ride up the side of the fjord to Steingasten, an improbable giant concrete platform with magnificent views across the whole area.

We saw a small boat carrying a bunch of survival-suited passengers, and found its origin, a company called Fjord Safari - and became two of the survival-suited passengers ourselves. We spent a couple of hours admiring the fjord from water level, which was fascinating.

Flat land is rare in most of Norway, so when people found some, they made the most of it. We were shown one farm, high up on the cliffside of the fjord with a little flat, but steep, land around it. The guide explained that it is called “stigen”, Norwegian for ladder, because the only access from the water involved climbing a ladder up a sheer cliff. The latest owner has blasted a steep, narrow path to replace the ladder, but it is still a couple of hundred metres up the side of a cliff, with the only access being from the water. Amazingly, the property is still in use, and has even been used for a wedding. It’s really hard to imagine, nowadays, the life of the farmer, carrying all his supplies up the ladder, including presumably the building materials that the house and barn are made of. Apparently they paid no taxes, because whenever the tax inspector came round, they just pulled up the ladder.

Later on we saw several more farms like this, perched precariously half way up a cliff, with no apparent means of reaching them either from above or from below. Many of them look in good shape and are probably still in use, though maybe no longer as active farms.

The following afternoon we embarked on the ferry ride from Flåm to Bergen, out along the Sognefjord and then southwards down the coast. There are ferries everywhere - the fjords are wide and penetrate a long way inland, so bridges are rarely practical. The coastal roads involve frequent ferry crossings, and there are many islands which at least until recently could only be reached that way. Now, many of them are linked by a series of bridges, made possible by Norway’s new-found wealth as an oil exporter.

Our ferry was fast, cruising at 30 knots. Even so the journey took five hours, initially through the spectacular fjords - Sognefjord is a UNESCO world heritage site. Eventually it reaches the sea, threading its way between tiny islands, sometimes via passages that are barely wider than the boat. We were very lucky to spot some people leaving the boat at one of its early stops, vacating the very best seats at the front. Some quick footwork gave us a magnificent view of all this in the beautiful evening light. Five hours sounds a long time but I never even opened the book I had with me.


Seen from the ferry on our way into Bergen

View from the Flåmsbana looking up nearly
1000m to its starting point
Arrival in Flåm, complete with giant
cruise ship and its passengers
The Fjord Safari, complete with survival suits
The view down Aurlandfjord
from the Steingasten



Bergen

Bergen is renowned as the wettest town in Europe. Miraculously, during our two days there it was sunny - I even got a touch of sunburn. For centuries it was one of the principal towns of the Hanseatic League, the international trading organisation that dominated marine commerce in northern Europe. The waterfront consists entirely of buildings from that epoch, painted in bright colours and also a UNESCO world heritage site. Our hotel was nestled among these, an old and very characterful wooden building.

Before we even got there, we passed through an incredible fish market, packed with every kind of fish imaginable including some crabs that put the Alaskan king crabs to shame, with enormous legs over 60 cm long. It’s the kind of place that makes you want to buy everything you can see, though sadly there wouldn’t be much point for us.

The Hanseatic area is entirely given over to tourism. We visited the cathedral there, and did a guided tour which explained the daily life of the young apprentices to the League. Summary: it wasn't much fun.

The old town of Bergen is in a narrow, steep valley. Later development has gone up the valley slopes, and there is a funicular that goes from a few yards behind our hotel, to the top of the ridge. We even had a ticket for it in our collections of vouchers and whatnot, so up we went. The cafe and bar at the top was packed, as people enjoyed the spectacular view over the harbour and the city. We joined them, and Isabelle even walked down the twisty path back to town, wandering through narrow streets that haven’t changed in centuries.

Diner that night was at the Enshjørningen (Unicorn) fish restaurant, reputed to be one of the best in Bergen. It was very good, but like all eating in Norway, eye-wateringly expensive. Most of the time in Norway we drank beer, but at such a chic restaurant we felt obliged to drink Chablis - which was very good, though didn’t help at all with the bill.

The next day was our departure on the cruise, but that didn’t leave until the evening. We walked - well, I scootered - to the Kode Museum, which contains many works by Norwegian artists, including a section dedicated to Edward Munch, of “The Scream” fame. It showed his progression from enjoyable, strictly pictorial work through to his more surreal works, called “expressionism”, leading via some enjoyable pictures to the universally-known but challenging “The Scream”. There were many other works showing Norwegian life, which we really enjoyed. Isabelle particularly liked Nikolai Astrup, which she found full of poetry.

We’d noticed a seaplane flying very low over the town, and a bit of Googling showed that there is a seaplane doing “trips round the bay” from the harbour. We managed to get a booking, and spent an interesting half hour flying into the fjords and then a tour of Bergen itself, in a Cessna 206 on floats. From there a taxi took us directly to the cruise terminal.

Heyerdahl's "Old Man", a whole
lifetime shown in his face

A giant cruise ship from an unusual angle

Bergen's Hanseatic Quay
Bergen from the summit of the Funicular
One of Munch's earlier works
A painting by Nikolai Astrup


The Hanseatic Quay from the Seaplane

The Cruise

What I thought our ship would be like
We have never done any kind of cruise before. We see the giant 5000 passenger cruise ships at Nice and Cannes all the time, and they terrify us. Our ship was just 300 passengers, but even so we didn’t know what to expect.

The cruise route is still called Hurtigruten, which translates roughly as “coastal express”. It has been running since 1893, when it was launched as a way to connect all the remote coastal towns and villages with rest of Norway. It runs from Bergen in the south all the way up and round the Norwegian coast to Kirkenes, a few kilometres from the Russian border, taking 6 days and making about 30 stops. I envisaged a kind of coastal tramp steamer with half a dozen cabins for the intrepid, a bit like the picture on the right - the MS Salten which indeed did operate the Hurtigruten during the 1950s.

I was wrong. Our boat, the Havila Castor, was very modern and very luxurious. Our cabin was like a decent-sized hotel room, with its own bathroom, a good sized bed and a window giving us a view of the passing coastline. A restaurant served three meals a day, with table service rather than the buffet which seems to be universal on cruises. The food was excellent. At the front of the topmost level was a bar with huge windows looking forward and sideways. For the intrepid, a terrace ran all round the outside of the boat, perfect for taking pictures or just enjoying the sea air. We were incredibly lucky with the weather - it was never too cold or wet to stand or sit outside, though sometimes it was a bit windy.

I’d expected much of the journey to be quite boring, and had brought several books. I was quite wrong. Our departure from Bergen, passing through narrow channels between islands, was beautiful. The boat generally stays as close to the mainland as it can, meaning that there is nearly always something to see on both sides.

As we sailed away through the night we couldn’t help noticing the navigation lights. Seen in daylight these are like miniature lighthouses, a couple of metres tall and perched on rocky outcrops or the tips of islands. What struck us was the way they change colour at night, going from red to green to white and back to red as we progressed. Thanks to openseamap.org and some googling, we understood. They don’t actually change colour, they shine in different colours at different angles, a bit like a water-borne VOR (aerial navigation beacon). The picture shows the first one that got our attention. The dashed blue line is the boat’s course, so the lights shows red, green. white, green red as the boat sails along.

Even at midnight it wasn’t dark. Finally we persuaded ourselves to go to bed. When we awoke in the morning, it was delightful to watch the coast passing by the window. Later, the boat passed into Geiranger Fjord, very narrow and steep and another UNESCO world heritage site. The sides are near vertical, yet once again there are farms with their white houses and red barns perched way up on the cliffside, often with no visible means of approach from either above or below. While few of them are still active farms, they are mostly still in use as second homes. They must be very fit, the Norwegians.

At Geiranger we had elected to take an excursion. We were duly herded off the ship and onto a bus. This was the only time when it got a bit claustrophobic, all packed into a small space in the bowels of the ship waiting for a tender to join up with it and take us ashore. The goal was to see the magnificent views from the mountain roads, including the famous Trollstigen (Troll road - the Norwegians are very fond of trolls) with its eleven hairpin bends, pretty challenging in a bus. Unfortunately though, this was the one day when we had bad weather - really bad. As soon as we got high enough to have a view of anything, we were inside the cloud. We spent the afternoon being told about the magnificent views we would have - if only we could see anything at all - by a very friendly Italian guide whose French was as badly mangled as his English.

We would rejoin the ship later in the day after it had made its way northwards to Molde, the city of roses. The mild climate means that roses grow readily, and every building in the town is surrounded by thousands of them, and even the roof of the city hall.

We stopped at the town of Åndalsnes on the way for dinner. A brand new funicular took us to the top of a mountain, where a very light meal was served in the restaurant. As you may have guessed, we could see absolutely nothing at all. The bus ride was interesting though, enjoying the Norway coastal road experience, with a couple of ferries and a huge new bridge and tunnel in the 140 km drive.

Our next excursion was at Trondheim, where the ship stopped for three hours. The city used to have a tram system, but in 1980, like many places, they abandoned it. The longest line, which is more like a suburban railway, was taken over by enthusiasts. They did such a good job that later, it was bought out by a private company and now runs a regular tram service. In cooperation with the tram museum half way along the line, they also operate vintage trams as private charters, which is what we did. Our tram was built in 1958 and steadily rattled its way along the line, showing us the suburbs that rise on the hills above Trondheim.

Back in the city, we stopped at the cathedral. Unlike southern Europe, Norwegian churches are very austere, with very little decoration. This is the most famous cathedral in Norway, huge and built from grey stone in an elaborate Gothic style. Among the numerous altars, there is one to the Sami people, the eskimo-like natives of northern Norway. 

The organ is absolutely amazing, I would love to hear it played, with pipes long enough to make your bones rattle. That one is quite recent, but there is one from 1793 as well. It’s beautiful, but it’s not clear whether it ever gets played.

North of Trondheim the boat wiggles its way through a tiny passage between the islands near Stokkøya. It’s an amazing feat of precise navigation - they only do it in perfect weather. At times the passage is barely wider than the boat, and the navigable channel surely even narrower. The boat has a relatively shallow draft, about 5 metres, but you have to know where that depth is.

I had the chance of a brief conversation with the captain. The boat has an autopilot, every bit as capable as on a plane. But he explained to me that where things are delicate, everything is done by hand.

Leaving Bergen at Sunset
A Typical Coastal Village
Mysterious Inaccessible Cliffside Farms
Navigating the Fjords

The Arctic Circle

Crossing the Arctic Circle at 66° 33' N
The big thing after Trondheim was entering the Arctic Circle. The mountains, which were so far rather round, become quite pointy, and we could see a couple of glaciers in the distance.The boat ran a sweepstake to see who could guess the time most accurately. It might be possible to work it out but you would need a very detailed knowledge of the exact course and speeds, so it isn’t really worth trying. But we knew that it would be between 0630 and 0730 local, and at 0630 we were dutifully on deck to see it go past. There is a globe on an island that marks the spot, although I think from my phone’s GPS that it’s not quite the exact latitude - but there is no handy island a little further north where it really is.

Nothing dramatic happens when you cross it, of course. The sun doesn’t suddenly spring out. In fact, we were a couple of weeks late for “midnight sun” as these relatively southerly latitudes, but the night never gets dark. In winter it’s the opposite, and for several weeks the sun is never seen and it never really gets light. This doesn’t deter the courageous Hurtigruten - our boat and its ten companions make the journey day in, day out, summer and winter, light or dark and regardless of rough seas and storms.

By then it was time for breakfast, celebrated with champagne. Afterwards there was a deck celebration for the winner of the sweepstake, and then an ancient tradition (recently invented, we suspect) of having ice poured down your back by a mythical snow monster. We didn’t volunteer.

Our next call was at the arctic town of Bodø. We’d discovered that it is home to Norway’s principal aviation museum, so we arranged for a freelance excursion to see it.

Surprisingly, that was not one of the tours offered by the ship. It seems odd for the museum to be there rather than Oslo, but there is history behind it. During the Cold War, Bodø was a forward base for the U2 spy planes that flew at extreme altitudes over Russia. Bodø was Gary Powers’ destination when his U2 was shot down over Russia in 1962, creating a major diplomatic incident.

The museum has lots of aircraft, military in one wing, including a U2, and civilian in the other. The civilian part also includes the history of civil aviation in Norway, including a huge-looking Junkers three-engine floatplane - though in reality it is tiny compared to modern airliners.

From Bodø we set sail for the Lofoten Islands. This was the only part of the voyage that was how I’d imagined it, cutting an angle across the open sea with little to see on either side. I even managed to read a few pages of the book which I had been carrying round unopened since our arrival at Oslo airport.

Our first stop was at the tiny port of Stamsund, where we got to see - one more time - the incredibly slick procedure at these ten-minute stopovers.

First, a little door opens way up on the bow. As the ship approaches the quay, a sailor throws out a ball attached to a line, which in turn is attached to the thick mooring ropes. A quay-hand pulls the line and prepares to tie them up. Meanwhile the two ramps that will give access to the ship start to emerge through giant doors that have already opened. By the time the ship is close, they are fully extended. The movement of the boat is exquisitely controlled, so that 16,000 tons of boat come to a halt millimetres before touching the edge. Then the ramps are lowered to reach the ground. Instantly a little fork-lift appears from a corner somewhere to drive up and down the rear cargo ramp, loading and unloading a few palettes.

Then the few disembarking passengers emerge, trundling suitcases. Often they are welcomed with big hugs by their friends and relations waiting on the quay. Meanwhile other little groups start to break up, with tearful farewells and waves as one or two people leave the others behind.

And then, just a few minutes later, everything goes into reverse. The mooring ropes are released and pulled back into the boat, and the ramps are lifted clear of the ground. As soon as that is done, powerful thrusters move the boat away from the quayside and the ramps start to retract back into the boat. Often this is followed by a complex manouevre to extract the ship from the confines of the port and turn it around to leave in the opposite direction. At the smallest ports the whole process, from beginning to end, takes less than ten minutes. In nice weather it’s a pleasure to watch. In the depths of winter it may be nicer to stay inside in the bar. And all this happens a total of 34 times on the six-day voyage from Bergen to Kirkenes.


The Man with the Rope
Preparing to Dock

Lofoten Islands and Svolvaer

The Lofoten Islands are famous for their beautiful rugged scenery. The final part of our journey was to Svolvaer, which isn’t very interesting, consisting mainly of hotels, but it is the capital and tourism centre of the islands. A taxi took us to our hotel on a tiny island. Unlike the modern structures close to the quay it was very charming, consisting of wooden cabins painted the dark red of the barns and fishermen’s cabins we had seen all along the journey. We’d eaten dinner on the boat, but there was a pub close by for a final drink. Although we had missed the midnight sun, it never got dark. At midnight the tables outside were packed with lightly-dressed visitors making the most of the exceptionally warm weather.

The island was directly opposite the quay, with a great view of our ship - though it was no longer our home (sniff). It had to wait for a long time, because there were excursions that had started at the previous port so it had to wait for the small boats and the buses to arrive. Eventually we were able to watch it manouevre its way out of the very tight space in the harbour, simultaneously distancing itself from the quayside and turning through 180 degrees before departing even further north, eventually to arrive at Kirkenes three days later.

In fact our itinerary didn’t really show us anything of the Lofoten Islands. We’d considered trying to extend by a day and disembark at Tromsø, the next major stop. But it would have been too complicated as a last minute change.

That will be for next time - we already have it worked out. Fly to Svolvaer, rent a car and explore Lofoten by road, take a boat ride to yet another exceptional fjord, Trollfjord, then take the Hurtigruten to its northern terminus. Next year, maybe.

All that was left was to fly home. A taxi took us to the tiny Svolvaer airport the next morning, where a 39-seat DHC8 turboprop showed up to take us to Oslo. With them, the company Widerøe runs a complex network of short flights to tiny airports on islands and in isolated towns all over Norway, the modern equivalent of the Hurtigruten's mission in 1893. But Widerøe's origins were very different. Mr Widerøe started his aviation career in the 1930s taking pictures of Norway's numerous isolated farms and homesteads, and selling them to the proud owners. Only after the war, he moved into carrying people.

Our flight was mostly over the centre of the country, and while clouds obscured a lot of the view, there really isn't much there except mountains, more mountains and the occasional glacier - certainly no farms or people.

At Oslo our connecting flight too us back home.  Good bye Norway, we liked you a lot. We'll be back.

Our Ride Home

The Northern Coast
Another Coastal Village
A Midnight Beer in Svolvaer, with our Ship

The Anker Brygge Hotel, Svolvaer